Best garden tiles for outdoor paving

Porcelain garden tiles are non-porous so they don't absorb moisture. Made from a mixture of sand, clay and feldspar that's fired for a longer time and at a higher temperature than ceramic tiles, porcelain is an extremely durable material. Hardwearing and scratch-proof, its resistance to frost makes it ideal for the Great British climate – no more cracked tiles.
The glaze finish makes porcelain tiles less likely to stain or become slippery. In short, you get all the aesthetic appeal of ceramic, stone or timber with much greater practicality.
As mentioned, natural stone, slate, granite and sandstone paving slabs are a premium option for paving a driveway, path, or patio. However, as beautiful as real stone can be, it is a lot more expensive and is more prone to discolouration than porcelain tiles. But if you want to capture the look of a period property with an authentic herringbone or brick weave path, then opt for traditional heritage stone paving. Each slab is unique, with tumbled edges and irregular shapes, gaining a natural patina over time.
Get Welsh slate in faux form at a fraction of the price of the real natural stone. Or choose a sandstone effect to go around your hot tub and not have to worry about falling in – real sandstone is notoriously slippery. Alternatively, go for a contemporary look with graphite or black tiles for mono chic.

Floor tiles have a slip rating (ramp test) in the product specs. Starting at R9 up to R13, you can see at a glance where they’re safe to use outside. The higher the number following the ‘R' the more anti-slip qualities it has. Porcelain tiles with a resistance of R11 or R12, or any floor tile with a R13 rating, are suitable for use in the garden.
Just to add, interior tiles are generally 6mm thick, while exterior tiles are 20mm in order to withstand the weather and wider temperature range.

Porcelain tiles tend to be low maintenance and some have anti-mould properties. But do be sure to hose or pressure wash tiles to remove any grime, moss, mould or mildew. Use a solution of bleach and water. It's best to clean regularly to keep your outdoor flooring looking its best.

Porcelain tiles are rigid and an even thickness, which makes them easier to lay than stone or timber decking. If the ground is even they can be bedded directly into soil, gravel and even onto grass. But for longevity, it's best to lay tiles on concrete slabs. Do note that porcelain tiles are heavier and thicker to cut than ceramic tiles.
If you're adding accent tiles to an existing concrete patio it's a good idea to use an adhesive that's a similar colour to the tiles. If you're tiling a large area use cement as it's a cheaper option than adhesive.
Before you purchase any tiles, note the dimensions and create a paper template. You can use this to work out what size your tiled area is going to be, as well as the pattern in which you are going to lay the tiles.
Buy 10 per cent more than you need to allow for wastage in case there are breakages.
You may opt for neat rows that are uniform from corner to corner. In contrast, you may decide on a staggered arrangement of planks. Or, you could frame your tiles with a border of porcelain planks where the edges are cut at a 45 degree angle.
When it comes to grouting, spacers vary between 4mm to 8mm. By having a very narrow space between the tiles you achieve a neater look. But it can also be interesting to create contrast by having different colour grout that's boldly different to the tiles. As Sian O’Neill from Topps Tiles says: “Over recent years, grout colour has become just as important as the choice of tile. It can play a crucial role in achieving a personal look, transforming a tile and creating a very different style or trend.”
If you're daunted by taking on a tiling project, seek out the expertise of a skilled tiler. Find trusted tradespeople in your area on the Tile Association’s listings.

Jill Morgan advises how to lay a one metre squared area patio using patterned tiles:
What you need:
Concrete
Your choice of tiles
Tile cutter
Grout float
Flexible tile adhesive
Notched trowel
5mm tile spacers
Flexible tile grout
Sponge
Soft brush
Knee pads, protective goggles, dust mask and safety gloves
Measure out the area to tile, ensure it is level and fix timber battening around the edges. Mix and pour in the concrete base. Level off the surface by working across the surface from front to back with a length of timber and spirit level. Leave to dry and set for at least six weeks before laying tiles.
Work out how many tiles you will need and arrange them across the concrete base to decide on the best layout and to work out any cuts needed. Using a tile cutter trim any tiles as required.
Mark the position of the central tile or tiles by using lengths of string stretched between two wooden pegs pushed into the ground next to the concrete base. This will be your starting point for tiling.
Clear and sweep the concrete base. Pour the tile adhesive onto the centre of the base and spread out, first using the straight edge of the spreader then repeat with the notched edge to leave even ridges.
Using your string as a guide, lay your first tile, pressing it down and slightly twisting it so it firmly beds in. Repeat with the rest of the tiles using tile spacers between each for equal grout lines. Remove any adhesive from the tiled surface before it hardens.
Mix up and apply the grout using a grout float, working it evenly into the gaps. Wipe off any excess with a sponge before it sets.
If the weather is looking a bit threatening, put plastic sheeting over the newly laid patio to allow it to slowly dry out.

Stonecast is a high-standard concrete that's highly durable and available in a range of styles, textures and colours.
Granite is a naturally formed hard stone with a number of properties that make it an ideal choice for a surface. Granite is resistant to marks and staining, additionally, it's heat-resistant and non-slip.
Natural stone is ideal for a traditional home. Stone from regional quarries varies in texture, colour and size. It's weather-resistant but will need some maintenance, such as pressure washing to remove lichen and grime.
Limestone comes in a lovely range of colours. Limestone is non-slip and can be used around swimming pools and hot tubs.
Sandstone is a sedimentary rock and as such has natural variation in colour and markings. Sandstone does become slippery when it gets wet.
Slate is a durable option for tiles and gives a sleek and contemporary look. It's non-slip and doesn't require much maintenance.
If you're buying a natural stone product you can expect some colour variation. Otherwise, opt for stonecast and porcelain products.

If you've invested in stone or concrete paving slabs and you're looking for it to be a long-lasting feature of your garden, it's important to get the groundwork right before you begin paving.
Check the area you are going to position your patio with a cable avoidance tool, which you can hire from a tool centre.
Using pegs and string, you can accurately line out the position of the patio. Use a tape measure to check the dimensions and use a large set square to ensure each corner is a perfect 90 degree angle.
Using the string as a guide dig out any turf, plants or stones and remove soil, allowing for a depth of 100mm. This will be the subbase of the patio, plus 25mm of slablayer, plus the depth of your chosen paving slabs.
Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and use a rake to level it out. Compact the hardcore with a wacker plate or tamper, which are available to hire. Please remember to wear the appropriate safety gear when using machinery and tools.
Next, add another 50mm layer of subbase and compact this layer too. These two compacted layers will provide a solid base for your patio. Add a 25mm depth of slablayer, raking the surface for a level layer. Follow the manufacturer's guidance on how much water to add to the slablayer. The water can be applied using a watering can and once again raking the surface to mix.
Wear protective gloves to handle the paving slabs.
The slabs will need to angle on 1/60 gradient to ensure rainwater runs off.
Dampen the underside of the paving slab before laying it on the slablayer. Begin laying at the highest point of the patio. Use a rubber mallet to embed it and use a spirit level to ensure it's level, plus make sure it's square as this slab will be a guide for the rest of the slabs.
Use a space between each slab to ensure a consistent gap. And use a spirit level to check each slab is even, but also allowing for a 1/60 gradient.
Put a plastic tarpaulin over the patio to allow it to slowly dry out. Hold the tarp in place with bricks and planks of wood. Allow to dry for at least 24 hours.
Once the patio is dry, fill in the joints with slablayer using a trowel (pointing). Alternatively, use a mortar mix which is four parts sand to one part cement. Add a little water to the mix to create a damp consistency so it doesn't crack when it sets. Use a semi-stiff broom to brush off any excess mortar or slablayer before it sets.